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مصممو الأزياء يقتحمون عالم الحجاب ويضفون عليه بعدا آخر

 DWالعربية ـ عـمكـابـاد

شركات غربية للموضة والملابس دخلت منذ مدة غمار عرض أزياء إسلامية. وفي عالم الموضة يكتسب الحجاب إشعاعا جديدا، لكنه يكاد يفقد أحيانا روحه الأصلية.

لم يكن الأمر سوى مسألة وقت حتى تكتشف دار Dolce & Gabbana أزياء المرأة المسلمة لتطرح ابتكارات في عالم هذه الموضة. فبعد لباس القساوسة والأرامل في صقلية جاء الآن دور الحجاب. منذ سنوات تستلهم الدار الإيطالية الشهيرة للأزياء من تقاليد ثقافات أخرى لإثراء عروضها التي لا يمكن ربطها بالضرورة مع ما يسمى تصميم الأزياء الرفيع. فبعد موضوع الأرملة الصقلية الحزينة التي ظلت وحدها، وخلوة رجل الدين المسيحي جاء دور وضع لمسات واضحة في عالم الأناقة، وتحديدا مع حجاب المرأة المسلمة الذي لم يجلب اهتمام Dolce & Gabbana فقط، بل إن شركة H&M السويدية ساهمت في بزوغ نجم مارية إدريسي، وهي مواطنة بريطانية من أصل باكستاني مغربي كعارضة أزياء على مستوى العالم. كما أن دارMango طرحت في شهر رمضان موضة للنساء في السوق، وشركة DKNY تقوم حاليا بتصميم لباس يتناسب مع اللباس الإسلامي التقليدي. أما دار Marks & Spencer فهي تعرض على الزبونات المسلمات لباس سباحة يغطي الجسم كله.

ويخطط مبدع الموضة الألماني فولفغانغ يوب لفتح فرع له في طهران عاصمة “الثورة الإسلامية”. وقال يوب في تصريح للتلفزة الألمانية إنه ينظر إلى أسلوب اللباس الإسلامي كتعبير لتحرر المرأة، وقال:”أبتعد عن النظرات والانتقاد والمقارنة ـ في بلدان الشرق تحديدا حيث مزاج الحياة الجنسية مفعم. وبالنسبة لي يحتفظ هذا الموقف الشرقي والثقافة والموضة بنوع من جاذبية العشق والانطواء على الأسرار”.

Junge Muslime in Deutschland

شابات مسلمات في ألمانيا

“الحجاب يجب أن يصبح عاديا”

التحجب والجاذبية الجنسية، موضوع قديم، لكن هل هو إسلامي أيضا؟ التعاليم الإسلامية ترمي من خلال دعوة المرأة إلى ستر جسدها بلباس لائق إلى حمايتها ككيان ثمين من خدش أنظار الغرباء.

عارضة الأزياء مارية إدريسي من دار H&M قالت في مقابلة مع مجلة “شبيغل” الألمانية: “أومن بالقرآن، وإنه واجب ـ على الرجال والنساء ـ وضع لباس ساتر”. في الوقت نفسه تعترف إدريسي بأنها تتطلع إلى هدف آخر:”أن يصبح الحجاب عاديا”. ولبلوغ ذلك نجدها تتحرك بين موضوعين شائكين هما الدين والجمال.

“Look Chic“ هو شعار لفيلم دعائي قصير تظهر فيه إدريسي. وبكلمات أخرى يمكن القول بأن الحجاب يبحث هنا عن تحالف مع الجمالية، ليبقى التساؤل هنا مطروحا حول المغزى من إبراز الجانب الجمالي للأنثى في الفضاء العام.

Wolfgang Joop Designer

مصمم الأزياء الألماني فولفغانغ يوب

ثمن باهض

العروض التي تقدمها دور الأزياء للمرأة المسلمة تساهم على ما يبدو في جعل الحجاب في العالم الغربي لباسا عاديا. لكن الثمن من أجل ذلك يبقى مرتفعا. وقد يصبح الحجاب في العالم الغربي فعلا مشهدا عاديا في الحياة اليومية، لكن ربما فقط مع فقدانه روحه الأصلية أي ستر الجمال وليس إبرازه. وبالتالي فإن النساء المسلمات اللاتي يرفضن تعريف المرأة من خلال حسنها وتقليصها في أداة ولع للرجال سيجدن أنفسهن أمام إشكالية مع صناعة الموضة التي تطرح إبداعات مغايرة لوظيفة الحجاب الأصلية التي أرادت الحفاظ على استقلالية المرأة. فالموضة العصرية تجعل الحجاب لا يغطي الجمال، بل يُبرزه ومن تم فإن الحجاب يتعرض للضغط من قبل تبجيل الجمال الذي تروج له صناعة الموضة. وإذا ما وافق اللباس الإسلامي على هذا العرض، فإن مغزاه الأصلي سيصبح محل تساؤل، وحضوره في المشهد العام يكون رهينا بهذا التنازل.

الابتعاد عن الأصل

الحجاب التقليدي هو في كنهه ثابت الوظيفة. إنه يكسر نظرات الرجال الموجهة إلى جسم المرأة ويحفظها من الأحكام المسبقة. وعلى هذا النحو تقول باربارا فينكن، أخصائية الشؤون الثقافية في التلفزة الألمانية إنه يمكن اعتبار الحجاب “حماية للمرأة وكطعم جذاب للشهوة الذكرية”.

لكن البعض يعتبر أن هذه الوظيفة بالذات مهددة في حال تحالف صناعة الموضة مع الحجاب. يمكن التأسف لذلك أو الترحيب به، لكن الواضح هو أن الحجاب تحت أيادي مصممي الموضة قد يتحول إلى قطعة تفقد روحها الأصلية كما هو الحال بالنسبة إلى لباس الأرملة الصقلية أو القس المختل بنفسه.

 

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