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كيف تحمينا اللحوم المقددة من التسمم الغذائي؟

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بعض قطع اللحم قد تظل صالحة للأكل لأكثر من ست سنوات، فما هو السر في ذلك؟

نُشر خبر في وقت سابق تصدر الإعلام في مدينة نيويورك، إذ تسبب نشر قطع من اللحم في الهواء في مشكلة كادت أن تخرج عن السيطرة.

فقد سادت حالة من عدم الرضى في بلدة وايت ستون، في كوينز، بمدينة نيويورك الأمريكية، خلال خريف عام 2016، بعد أن صُدم الجيران عندما رأوا لفائف من أمعاء الخنزير معلقة على حبل في حديقة خلفية لأحد المنازل.

فيمكن لهذه اللفائف أن تجذب الجرذان، حسبما يقول الجيران، إضافة إلى مشكلة الرائحة النتنة، أما سكان المنزل فكان جوابهم أنها تجهز كطعام، فهي جزء من الأطباق الصينية التقليدية. وسعى الجيران لتقديم شكاوى إلى المسؤولين المعنيين.

لكن في كثير من أنحاء العالم، لا يعتبر هذا منظراً غريباً، فإذا مشيت في بعض شوارع آسيا، سترى غالباً أدوات مطبخية حادة، وقطع سميكة من لحم الخنزير معلقةً على حبال نشر الملابس، وشرائح من السمك أيضا، أو حتى يمكن أن ترى ساق خنزير كاملة متدلية قرب عمود إنارة.

ورغم ذلك المشهد المتنوع لطرق تجفيف اللحوم، تعد هذه طريقة قديمة منذ قرون، أو ربما آلاف السنوات، وهي عملية التقديد، أو تجفيف اللحم في الهواء.

إذا كنا نقلق من نسيان قطع الدجاج على طاولة المطبخ في الليل، كيف يمكننا ترك اللحم في الشمس ولأيام طويلة، ثم أكله والبقاء أحياء؟!

السر في التخلص من الرطوبة، فداخل شريحة لحم الخنزير، أوحتى ساقه الكاملة، هنالك صراع يجري بين البكتيريا وبين عملية التبخّر، إذ يسعى من يريدون الاستمتاع بوجبة طعام لذيذة من اللحم المقدد إلى الاستفادة من عملية التبخر للحصول على طعام صحي خال من الرطوبة والبكتريا.

نقانق اللحم في الصينمصدر الصورةGETTY IMAGESImage captionفي الصين، تجفف نقانق لحم الخنزير في الهواء الطلق.

تبدأ العملية عادةً بالملح، حيث تُغطى قطعة اللحم بالملح حتى يساعد ذلك في استخراج الماء من أنسجة اللحم إلى السطح ليتبخر هناك، تماماً مثلما يمتص الملح المياه الزائدة في الباذنجان أو بعض النباتات الأخرى عندما نغطيها به.

وفي الوقت نفسه، يجعل الملح سطح اللحم وبعض الأجزاء الداخلية غير صالحة لعيش تلك البكتيريا الصغيرة والضارة، لأنه يمتص المياه والبكتريا نفسها، لتصبح شرائح لحم جافة وغير مؤذية.

لكن عندما تكون قطعة اللحم كبيرة، لا يمكن لعملية التبخر أن تسحب الماء بسرعة كافية بشكل تظل معه قطعة اللحم صالحة للاستهلاك، لذا يُحقن الملح مع قليل من الماء داخل أنسجة اللحم بين كل سنتيمترين، كحل للمشكلة.

وتتضمن هذه العملية استخدام نترات الصوديوم أيضا، وهي مادة حافظة توقف نمو الميكروبات في الوقت الذي تقوم بتثبيت البروتينات في أنسجة قطعة اللحم، في عملية كيميائية تحول لون اللحم إلى اللون الوردي.

ومن المعروف أنه يمكن للمياه تحفيز حياة البكتيريا، لكن في هذه الحالة تسهم المياه في عملية التجفيف لأنها تكون ممزوجة بالملح ونترات الصوديوم، وهو ما يحفز من فعالية تلك العملية.

لذلك في كثير من وصفات تقديد اللحم، تكون أول خطوة هي ترك اللحم في مكان بارد ورطب، حسبما يقول أنتونيو ماتا، وهو باحث مهتم باللحوم، ومستشار لموقع “أميزينغ ريبس دوت كوم” المختص في طهي اللحوم.

عندما تبدأ عملية الجفاف، يحين الوقت لرفع درجة الحرارة، وبدء عملية التبخر مرة أخرى، وببطء. ويقول كريغ بلوندير، وهو أستاذ بجامعة بوسطن، ومستشار لذاتِ الموقع الإلكتروني: “إذا سحبت الرطوبة بسرعة، فإن سطح اللحم يجف بسرعة”.

تقليدياً، تتغير تفاصيل الوصفة تبعاً للمناخ المحلي، ويضيف بلوندير قائلاً: “تعتمد وصفات تقديد اللحم على البيئة، لكن من الأساسي توفير مكان دافئ مع إمكانية للتحكم في الرطوبة بحذر”.

وفي الصين، كما يحدث في أماكن عدة، تتباين اللحوم التي تُقدد في البيوت ما بين لحم بطن الخنزير التي تستخدم فيها مواد حافظة، إلى النقانق المجففة بالهواء، والتي تصنع عادة في الشتاء حيث تسنح الظروف المناخية لتجفيف اللحم بطريقة آمنة.

قطع من اللحممصدر الصورةGETTY IMAGESImage captionتغطية اللحم من الخارج بالملح تسحب الرطوبة إلى الخارج، وهو ما يجعلها قاسية وغير مناسبة للبكتيريا.

إذا استطعت تفادي الحشرات التي تقتات على اللحم المقدد، فسوف يستغرق الأمر أشهرا لكي يصل إلى المذاق المطلوب للحم المقدد الجاف اللذيذ، لكن الكثير من الناس من مختلف الحضارات حول العالم يفضلون الانتظار.

لحم “جينهوا” الصيني المشهور يستغرق على الأقل ستة أشهر ليكون جاهزاً للأكل، و لحم “كولاتيلو” يستغرق من 14 إلى 48 شهراً. أما اللحم الأغلى على الإطلاق في العالم، فهو من إسبانيا، ويستغرق ستة أعوام، بحسب موسوعة غينيس للأرقام القياسية.

وكلما زادت مدة التجفيف، يصبح طعم اللحم أغرب مما يجب، إذ تبدأ الدهون في إفراز مذاق غير محبب، لكنه يشكل كذلك جزءاً من متعة التجربة بالنسبة لبعض الناس.

الجفاف التام هو عنصر مهم في صنع اللحم البقري المقدد كذلك، وهو أهم طبق في المطاعم الفاخرة، حيث تُترك قطعة اللحم البقري لتفقد رطوبتها تدريجياً حتى تتشكل عليها طبقة من العفن التي تحميها من بقية الميكروبات، والتي تُستبعد لاحقاً قبل طهي اللحم، بما يُكسبها طعماً قوياً.

تجرى عملية تجفيف اللحم هذه الأيام في غرف يمكن التحكم بها بشكل دقيق، ويمكن إطالة تلك العملية إلى وقت أكثر من المُتوقع، ولا تُستخدم مواد حافظة فيها. وقد عمل أنتونيو ماتا ذات مرة مع طباخ في شيكاغو لإعداد لحم بقري مقدد، ترك ليجف لمدة 71 يوماً.

أما في الماضي، فكان لطباخي البيوت طريقة أقل تطوراً بالتأكيد. وحسبما تقول وصفة من القرن الثامن عشر في انجلترا: “اتركها معلقةً في المستودع لأطول فترة ممكنة، حتى تصبح رائحتها كريهة، وتبدأ في الذبول”. لكن ربما يجب معرفة رأي الجيران أولا في هذه الطريقة تجنبا لأية مشاكل!

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